There is so much more to Provence than pictures of lavender fields and pretty villages with people playing pétanque and drinking pastis. A moondial in the Alpilles, a village in the Haut-Var without which Louis XIV might never have been born, a theory that Saint Sarah was actually the daughter of Jesus and Mary Magdalene, a night spent in a bubble or up a tree, a statue of "The worst damned German poet of the lot', a private Coca Cola museum in Avignon, an antipope who disappeared in the Lubéron, a Masonic sundial, a rather unusual marriage door, traces of the Resistance still surviving in Manosque ...